Brutkey

Zimmie
@bob_zim@infosec.exchange

@mcc@mastodon.social It’s usually within one inch of the actual diagonal measurement of the active area of the panel (typically excludes the bezel). Manufacturers usually round up, so 24.2” actual active diagonal may be marketed as 25”.

If you look up the monitor model, you can generally get the exterior dimensions from the manufacturer.

mcc
@mcc@mastodon.social

@bob_zim@infosec.exchange yeah thanks. 1 inch of variance is ok i just don't want to uh. multiply the size by 1.414213562373

mcc
@mcc@mastodon.social

@bob_zim@infosec.exchange i'm honestly more worried about buying a too big monitor than a too small one

Zimmie
@bob_zim@infosec.exchange

@mcc@mastodon.social What grade of HDR are you looking for? Plenty of monitors support HDR10 data, which they map down to the peak brightness their backlights can manage (normally 350-500 nit). “Real” HDR involves enormously more powerful backlights (normally 1200-2000 nit) and often dimming zones, so the backlight can run at full power only in the areas where the image is exceptionally bright.

For mapped HDR, there are plenty of 1080p, 21-25” monitors which support HDR10 plus FreeSync for under $250 or so (KTC H25T7, LG 24GS50F-B.AUSQ, Acer UM.QX1AA.303).

Real HDR mostly starts around 27”, and you should expect to pay more like $600 per monitor.