Result is: uh oh, the middle of this most certainly will NOT work. I am slightly sucking in my gut so the pin doesn't pop out! Wayyyy too small around my middle section. (UPDATE: AHA! Figured this out, there's another panel which I was unclear about, which is between the back and the front...) Cc @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social #tailoring #sewing
@ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social I ran into that fit issue making a Thread Theory peacoat for my husband.
You probably want to choose a size to your chest, and then do the "full abdomen adjustment".
You probably will still need another toile, and it will probably feel like you have too much at the hip after - if that's the case take the extra amount from a side seam, but leave the fullness in the middle.
This article has the diagrams:
https://www.seamwork.com/sewing-tutorials/adjustments-for-men
@ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social I also highly recommend Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear by Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine. It's not a cheap book, but excellent when it comes to diagnosing more precise fit issues, and how to fix them. I bought a copy just so I could figure out the peacoat thing ð
@jjcelery@mastodon.ie @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social going to large on the pattern isn't going to cover the gap, LOL. This is with the full seam allowances on this test. I guess the test fabric was VERY important here.
@ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie @femme_mal@mstdn.social
Is this a men's pattern or youth?
Notice how high up the curve away starts.
Compare to a jacket that fits you.
@EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie @femme_mal@mstdn.social It claims it is men's. I'll go see if I have a jacket that fits me anymore. ðŽ
(the last jacket I had tailored, which was only one, was in high school, when I was a beanpole and probably weighted 50 lbs less.... I was SKINNY. Skinny weakling who never saw sunlight, spent too much time in the basement on the computer ðĪŠ
)
@EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie @femme_mal@mstdn.social aha!! I misunderstood the pattern... there's a whole other panel missing!!! #sewing
@EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie @femme_mal@mstdn.social that was helpful, nonetheless. Will go cut that panel and sew it in next and see where we are. This is helpful regardless! I would have made the same mistake on the final garment. #sewing
@ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social ah is it the under-sleeve piece you're missing? Many patterns integrate it into front bodice, but yours definitely doesn't. I don't see photos of the back bodice piece on flat to confirm it's not integrated into the back, but this sounds likely with how much width you're missing there!
@jjcelery@mastodon.ie @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social Yeah, that is definitely the problem, I am going to remedy that next, LOL. So confusing!
@jjcelery@mastodon.ie @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social fixed! Enough slop in this design I don't think much adjustment needed.
@ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie @femme_mal@mstdn.social
What a difference including that missing panel made!
The back fits well. The center back neck is laying down nicely. There is no pulling across the shoulders â if too tight.
There's no sag in the center back â if too big.
It is hard to judge whether the back armhole needs a touch more fabric. The seam allowance will take some away.
The front may turn out to have excess fabric. Wait until sleeves are added before changing anything.
Your model is twisting and sticking hands in pockets. Luckily his face is not showing ð
now
@EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie LMAO That's like the most frequent request I had to make when marking up men's wear for alterations -- stand up straight with arms neutral, HANDS OUT OF YOUR POCKETS. (I don't care how odd it feels, sir, but this suit will look awful otherwise.)
@femme_mal@mstdn.social @EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie
that just made me relive my entire childhood, where my mom made a lot of my clothes...
"stand up straight, stop slouching!"
"get your hands out of your pockets!"
"just let your arms hang, relaxed!"
@femme_mal@mstdn.social @ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie
My grandmother was a tailor. By age 4 I was trained.
"stop wriggling, there are pins in that"
"head up, don't look down"
"no twisting"
@EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social @ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie
ooh. pins...
my sister is a skilled seamstress and has done alterations on slacks for me a number of times.
the gleam in her eye and her smile as she holds pins near my crotch and says "now, don't move..." still can make me twitch thinking about it.
@EugestShirley@m.ai6yr.org @femme_mal@mstdn.social @ai6yr@m.ai6yr.org @jjcelery@mastodon.ie
ooh. pins...
my sister is a skilled seamstress and has done alterations on slacks for me a number of times.
the gleam in her eye and her smile as she holds pins near my crotch and says "now, don't move..." still can make me twitch thinking about it.
AI6YR Ben
JJ Celery
