wedge
wedgeFrom that piece I just boosted…
‘And in another email that month, Epstein also alleged that Marine Le Pen’s far-right Front National party was financed by Russia.’
Wonder if that yet plays into Le Pen’s legal troubles. If not, seems like the nail in the coffin.
wedgeHad a visit earlier today by my old beekeeper friend up the hill. Hadn’t seen or heard from him in a while. He’s 92. Not even sure he’s still doing the bees. I’ll find out today, though. He says he has some boards for me, or for a project, or something. I’m not quite sure. So going to his house soon to see what’s what.
wedgeAlso in the works is a restore of this riflard (wooden fore plane) on left. This and the gouge I’m putting a handle on will be tested on the post later, thus why these tools are getting attention at the mo.
The riflard sits next to a bigger varlope (wooden jointer plane). You can see the width difference between body and irons.
French riflards are rather long, thus easily/often confused as a varlope. Sometimes they are shorter and wider and called ‘demi-varlope’ but still used as a fore plane.
wedgeMade a quick surfacing board that handles stiff abrasive belts and rolls cut to length, without needing adhesives or screws.
A flat board and three battons/slats, all 80cm long. The idea was to make two tracks and have two grits available at a time, which I will still do, but one track is working fine for now and abrasives easy to change.
wedgeAlso in the works is a restore of this riflard (wooden fore plane) on left. This and the gouge I’m putting a handle on will be tested on the post later, thus why these tools are getting attention at the mo.
The riflard sits next to a bigger varlope (wooden jointer plane). You can see the width difference between body and irons.
French riflards are rather long, thus easily/often confused as a varlope. Sometimes they are shorter and wider and called ‘demi-varlope’ but still used as a fore plane.
wedgeWorking on a tapered octagon handle for this shallow-sweep Sorby gouge.
Not a fan of the ‘bottle’ edge that was ground on this but it’s too short now to re-grind. I’ll live with it.
I used a beech blank. It has some hard dark twisty grain at the tang end, and a little spalting with bug channels at butt. Still need to shorten (at butt), fill the bug rough, put a ferrule on the bolster end, and final finessing. Will be lovely.
All hand work. Saw, chisel, file, and sandpaper
#woodworking
wedgeBeing an epoxy noob, I’m not sure what to think here. The epoxy squeezed out around the plug and pooled on the seams and ends (I had to wipe it off through clamping), but now it seems to have sunk in about a centimeter or so. Maybe sucking into the wood?
And everything is still liquid and tacky, even in the cup, a tad more viscous. Bottle says things should be changing after 25 minutes. It’s been about 3 hours.
Damn cold in the shop, though.
Plugging will take longer than expected, I guess.
wedgeAbout #silicone cups for #epoxy use. Now I’ve tried. Here’s my take: Don’t bother.
The epoxy does peel out easily (the point). The little epoxy slivers and drops that harden on the cup sides; they still come out, too, but are tedious.
By the time you wash and wipe out the cups, you’ve wasted soap, water, and paper towels for no gain. And the epoxy plastic still goes directly into environment! A big negative at more cost.
Ideally: Minimize epoxy use as close to zero as possible.
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wedgeWill have to epoxy tomorrow. I suspect there is a crack in one bottom corner of the mortise that goes through to where the post got thin from worm/rot damage.
I’m sealing that first, so it doesn’t risk leaking all over. It’s drying slow.
wedgeBeing an epoxy noob, I’m not sure what to think here. The epoxy squeezed out around the plug and pooled on the seams and ends (I had to wipe it off through clamping), but now it seems to have sunk in about a centimeter or so. Maybe sucking into the wood?
And everything is still liquid and tacky, even in the cup, a tad more viscous. Bottle says things should be changing after 25 minutes. It’s been about 3 hours.
Damn cold in the shop, though.
Plugging will take longer than expected, I guess.
wedgeWill have to epoxy tomorrow. I suspect there is a crack in one bottom corner of the mortise that goes through to where the post got thin from worm/rot damage.
I’m sealing that first, so it doesn’t risk leaking all over. It’s drying slow.
wedgeI’ve been putting off buying Forstner bits because I can’t justify the cost, and I’m glad I did.
I just pulled out my old center-point bits for a brace (hadn’t tried them to date), sharpened them up and gave them some tests. They work beautifully, better than imagined. I really didn’t know what to expect, actually.
It cuts clean and fast enough, and with total control over depth of hole, no accidental overshooting.
wedgeNext is to inset the base of the post support in the block, and that will be bolted to only the block. If I need to take the post down for whatever temporary reason, that is where I do it.
I was going to use M8 bolts for that, but the bracket holes are M10, so I might upsize. M10 x 30mm.
The six holes that hold the giant tenon are also M10. This post won’t be going anywhere.
wedgeI’ve been putting off buying Forstner bits because I can’t justify the cost, and I’m glad I did.
I just pulled out my old center-point bits for a brace (hadn’t tried them to date), sharpened them up and gave them some tests. They work beautifully, better than imagined. I really didn’t know what to expect, actually.
It cuts clean and fast enough, and with total control over depth of hole, no accidental overshooting.