Well, never underestimate the capability of a drawknife, I guess. Between the big chisel and the knife I pretty much got it to where I want. No grinder disc or fore plane will be needed.
Still some deep chips around the naughty knot midway up, but they’re more leveled out now. I won’t worry about it all. Deeper than they look here.
The spots on left edge by patch will minimise after corner work.
The ugly close end will be cut off and tenoned, replaced by the bracket hardware.
Getting there.
I remembered what I had thought trying a while back and forgot. Heh.
Instead of wasting time finding and fighting a junk tire for a piece of rubber, I could use a piece of junk plastic cutting board. It may not absorb noise as well as rubber, but it will absorb some, and vibration, and be better than aluminum all around as a post sole on tile. I have such a board, 1 cm thick.
Well, never underestimate the capability of a drawknife, I guess. Between the big chisel and the knife I pretty much got it to where I want. No grinder disc or fore plane will be needed.
Still some deep chips around the naughty knot midway up, but they’re more leveled out now. I won’t worry about it all. Deeper than they look here.
The spots on left edge by patch will minimise after corner work.
The ugly close end will be cut off and tenoned, replaced by the bracket hardware.
Getting there.
Don’t think I ever mentioned (one project gets done and it’s quickly on to the next) but I hand delivered the laptop dock to the SIL in December. She loved it.
This thing.
Had a visit earlier today by my old beekeeper friend up the hill. Hadn’t seen or heard from him in a while. He’s 92. Not even sure he’s still doing the bees. I’ll find out today, though. He says he has some boards for me, or for a project, or something. I’m not quite sure. So going to his house soon to see what’s what.
Seems there are different types of hive constructions, and variations on given types. Warré hives traditionally don’t use frames in their design, though at least one variation, the Popular Hive, does.
https://warre.biobees.com/warre_5ed_60-71.pdf
Beeman uses frames, and gave me one for measure. So he’s either using a custom design, a variant of a variant, or some other type. Will need another meeting to clear up some details.
Found enough plans, though, that it should be straight forward once specifics are clear.
From that piece I just boosted…
‘And in another email that month, Epstein also alleged that Marine Le Pen’s far-right Front National party was financed by Russia.’
Wonder if that yet plays into Le Pen’s legal troubles. If not, seems like the nail in the coffin.
Had a visit earlier today by my old beekeeper friend up the hill. Hadn’t seen or heard from him in a while. He’s 92. Not even sure he’s still doing the bees. I’ll find out today, though. He says he has some boards for me, or for a project, or something. I’m not quite sure. So going to his house soon to see what’s what.
Also in the works is a restore of this riflard (wooden fore plane) on left. This and the gouge I’m putting a handle on will be tested on the post later, thus why these tools are getting attention at the mo.
The riflard sits next to a bigger varlope (wooden jointer plane). You can see the width difference between body and irons.
French riflards are rather long, thus easily/often confused as a varlope. Sometimes they are shorter and wider and called ‘demi-varlope’ but still used as a fore plane.
Made a quick surfacing board that handles stiff abrasive belts and rolls cut to length, without needing adhesives or screws.
A flat board and three battons/slats, all 80cm long. The idea was to make two tracks and have two grits available at a time, which I will still do, but one track is working fine for now and abrasives easy to change.
Also in the works is a restore of this riflard (wooden fore plane) on left. This and the gouge I’m putting a handle on will be tested on the post later, thus why these tools are getting attention at the mo.
The riflard sits next to a bigger varlope (wooden jointer plane). You can see the width difference between body and irons.
French riflards are rather long, thus easily/often confused as a varlope. Sometimes they are shorter and wider and called ‘demi-varlope’ but still used as a fore plane.
Working on a tapered octagon handle for this shallow-sweep Sorby gouge.
Not a fan of the ‘bottle’ edge that was ground on this but it’s too short now to re-grind. I’ll live with it.
I used a beech blank. It has some hard dark twisty grain at the tang end, and a little spalting with bug channels at butt. Still need to shorten (at butt), fill the bug rough, put a ferrule on the bolster end, and final finessing. Will be lovely.
All hand work. Saw, chisel, file, and sandpaper
#woodworking
Being an epoxy noob, I’m not sure what to think here. The epoxy squeezed out around the plug and pooled on the seams and ends (I had to wipe it off through clamping), but now it seems to have sunk in about a centimeter or so. Maybe sucking into the wood?
And everything is still liquid and tacky, even in the cup, a tad more viscous. Bottle says things should be changing after 25 minutes. It’s been about 3 hours.
Damn cold in the shop, though.
Plugging will take longer than expected, I guess.
About #silicone cups for #epoxy use. Now I’ve tried. Here’s my take: Don’t bother.
The epoxy does peel out easily (the point). The little epoxy slivers and drops that harden on the cup sides; they still come out, too, but are tedious.
By the time you wash and wipe out the cups, you’ve wasted soap, water, and paper towels for no gain. And the epoxy plastic still goes directly into environment! A big negative at more cost.
Ideally: Minimize epoxy use as close to zero as possible.
🌳
🌲
💦
🧠
wedge