Took a gamble on this box of auger bits. For 10β¬ it seemed like a good roll of the dice. Thereβs 13 in the box, two are odd, plus another 3 loose, evidently. Rusty braces and red crank handle are bonus.
If bits have their snails and nickers, and square shanks havenβt been cut off (I recently saw a seller suggest to would-be buyers to do that π£
) itβll be worth it.
Iβll use the box as model to make a couple more boxes, since leather isnβt coming fast. Get some sets put together.
The red thing might be a can opener. I wonβt restore that, but Iβll keep the interesting parts.
And they included a big wood box, everything fit inside. They must have paid out of pocket for the extra shipping fees. Probably just glad to be rid of the stuff.
Gouge arrived. An old Peugeot, one elephant. More substantial than expected. 34cm total length; 14 in handle. Thick/weighty blade; firmer like.
Octagon handle is original, certain; shy of 4cm wide. Split badly on two sides. Ferrules are shot. Iβll make a close match. Brass and steel ferrules.
I find that sweeps of old, French gouges never match up with the Sheffield list exactly, but itβs 30mm wide and closest to the β 7 sweep. I was hoping 8 or 9.
But itβs nice.
Restoring immediately.
When pulling the metal out of the citric solution, itβs quite black with chelate powder. It will make your hands just as black.
I quickly take it to scrubbing station. The only water source in the ogreβs lair. A plastic brush scrubs it off quick and effective. Dish soap to clean hands.
Dry tool immediately. The hardened metal (darker) on blade is visible. Nice thing about this solution. Easy to find the hard part.
Then shine w/ brass brush, wipe w/ oil. Rust free and ready for handle.
Longtime followers, you might have figured this out already, but I try to make concise βrestorationβ threads that provide just enough visual and explanation of my forays to equal decent videos, without being videos, which I have no overhead for.
Repetitive details get boring, I know, but the new follower might see a method or trick for the first time. And I have to show-brag the before and after of old tools. :)
Granted, my posts self-destruct. Threads can be long and do break.
Β―\_(γ)_/Β―
Web hosting specifically for carpenters. Boy, thatβs a niche.
Gouge arrived. An old Peugeot, one elephant. More substantial than expected. 34cm total length; 14 in handle. Thick/weighty blade; firmer like.
Octagon handle is original, certain; shy of 4cm wide. Split badly on two sides. Ferrules are shot. Iβll make a close match. Brass and steel ferrules.
I find that sweeps of old, French gouges never match up with the Sheffield list exactly, but itβs 30mm wide and closest to the β 7 sweep. I was hoping 8 or 9.
But itβs nice.
Restoring immediately.
Took a gamble on this box of auger bits. For 10β¬ it seemed like a good roll of the dice. Thereβs 13 in the box, two are odd, plus another 3 loose, evidently. Rusty braces and red crank handle are bonus.
If bits have their snails and nickers, and square shanks havenβt been cut off (I recently saw a seller suggest to would-be buyers to do that π£
) itβll be worth it.
Iβll use the box as model to make a couple more boxes, since leather isnβt coming fast. Get some sets put together.
Well, never underestimate the capability of a drawknife, I guess. Between the big chisel and the knife I pretty much got it to where I want. No grinder disc or fore plane will be needed.
Still some deep chips around the naughty knot midway up, but theyβre more leveled out now. I wonβt worry about it all. Deeper than they look here.
The spots on left edge by patch will minimise after corner work.
The ugly close end will be cut off and tenoned, replaced by the bracket hardware.
Getting there.
I remembered what I had thought trying a while back and forgot. Heh.
Instead of wasting time finding and fighting a junk tire for a piece of rubber, I could use a piece of junk plastic cutting board. It may not absorb noise as well as rubber, but it will absorb some, and vibration, and be better than aluminum all around as a post sole on tile. I have such a board, 1 cm thick.
Well, never underestimate the capability of a drawknife, I guess. Between the big chisel and the knife I pretty much got it to where I want. No grinder disc or fore plane will be needed.
Still some deep chips around the naughty knot midway up, but theyβre more leveled out now. I wonβt worry about it all. Deeper than they look here.
The spots on left edge by patch will minimise after corner work.
The ugly close end will be cut off and tenoned, replaced by the bracket hardware.
Getting there.
Donβt think I ever mentioned (one project gets done and itβs quickly on to the next) but I hand delivered the laptop dock to the SIL in December. She loved it.
This thing.
Had a visit earlier today by my old beekeeper friend up the hill. Hadnβt seen or heard from him in a while. Heβs 92. Not even sure heβs still doing the bees. Iβll find out today, though. He says he has some boards for me, or for a project, or something. Iβm not quite sure. So going to his house soon to see whatβs what.
Seems there are different types of hive constructions, and variations on given types. WarrΓ© hives traditionally donβt use frames in their design, though at least one variation, the Popular Hive, does.
https://warre.biobees.com/warre_5ed_60-71.pdf
Beeman uses frames, and gave me one for measure. So heβs either using a custom design, a variant of a variant, or some other type. Will need another meeting to clear up some details.
Found enough plans, though, that it should be straight forward once specifics are clear.